The Dos and Don'ts of Choosing a Face Wash for Sensitive Skin
Plus some recs.
People with sensitive skin know it's important to be really picky when choosing skincare products. Applying one wrong product can cause a whole host of problems for your skin, such as irritation, redness, bumpiness, etc. It's especially important to find out how to shop for products that will really work for you so you don't run into any issues and so you don't waste money on something that is totally wrong for you.
When it comes to face washes—a product you'll probably use daily—it's so important to find one that gels with your skin. You're going to want something that's trusted if you're using it day in, day out. So how do you find out what's best for sensitive skin? I went to the experts for their tips on how to choose a face wash. See what they had to say below.
"If someone has sensitive skin, they should try to rule out what makes them sensitive," dermatological nurse and celebrity aesthetician Natalie Aguilar says. "Most sensitivities are caused by fragrance, harsh chemicals such as alcohol, allergies, hormonal imbalances, or harsh climates. After ruling out what makes someone sensitive, one can prioritize what to look for in a cleanser."
"As sensitive skin overreacts when exposed to excess stimuli, those with this skin type need to look for a wash that has a short ingredient list, as too many ingredients can in and of itself trigger the inflammation cascade that occurs with sensitive skin," explains board-certified dermatologist and docent medical advisor Farhaad Riyaz, MD.
Riyaz says you should also look for a wash with ingredients that hydrate and help foster a healthy skin barrier.
"On a quest to defy aging or correct other skin issues, sensitive-skin types often choose a wash with exfoliating acids or vitamin C, and wash with hot water and a rough washcloth or sponge," Riyaz says. "This can aggravate sensitive skin leading to redness and flaking."
Aguilar recommends doing a simple cleanse twice a day using warm water (not hot), gently patting dry, and following with a skincare routine that suits your sensitive skin. "Try to avoid cleansing with harsh gadgets that are stimulating or offer a 'deep' cleanse. We don't want to strip sensitive skin of its natural barrier," she says.
Riyaz says people with sensitive skin might reach for creamy cleansers, oils, or balms that contain mineral oil or petroleum to relieve any itchiness or flakiness. "Mineral oil will clog pores, disrupt the barrier function of the skin, inhibit oxygenation and detoxification, and over time, make the skin dependent on it," he says.
And you'll also want to stay away from ingredients that are way too harsh. "Avoid sulfate (sodium lauryl sulfate), as this is one of the foaming ingredients in a face wash that can be quite irritating or sensitizing," says Anthony Rossi, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center, who has a skincare line launching in 2022. "Also avoid microbeads or other physical exfoliators, as these would be too harsh for sensitive skin types. Avoid benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid washes."
"Chemicals hiding under 'fragrance' or 'parfum' can make sensitive skin irritated," Aguilar says. "Excessive alcohol should also be avoided, as alcohol can dry out the skin by stripping natural oils."
You might want to consider swapping cleansers depending on the season. "Sensitive skin often experiences an uptick in irritation due to cold, dry, or windy fall and winter weather," Riyaz says. "Indoor heating can also aggravate the skin. To keep it in check, use a more hydrating cleanser in these colder seasons, such as one with nourishing oils that help support a healthy skin barrier."
Aguilar says that automatically buying "all-natural" or "unscented" cleansers is a mistake. You don't want to assume that since a cleanser is unscented it's gentle. "Some skincare products, referred to as unscented have been formulated to remove any smell, but they do this by adding masking chemicals, such as phthalates," says Aguilar. "Phthalates have been linked to endocrine disruption, developmental and reproductive toxicity, cancer, and have been banned from cosmetics in the European Union but still remain prevalent in U.S. products."
Aguilar says that some people might avoid cleansing altogether because their skin is sensitive, but you don't want to do that. "Pollution, dirt, and exposure to the day's elements can make the sensitive skin flare," she explains. "So keeping a healthy and clean barrier is important to keeping reactive skin calm."
Ready to find your go-to face wash? Take a look at these recs below.